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The Pilgrimage for Guadalupe-Tonantzin, Lady Covered by Snakes

Dec. 12 marks the Day of the Virgin of Guadalupe in Mexico and the rest of Latin America. It’s perhaps the most important figure of Catholicism in the continent and also a key element of syncretism for the indigenous peoples.

Millions of faithful peregrinate every year to Mexico City in honor of Guadalupe, carrying life-size figures of her or walking on their knees all the way to the Basilica, asking her for favor or thanking her for it.

Historians say the cult was brought by conquistador Hernan Cortes, who used to carry a banner with her image. Being from Extremadura, Spain, Cortes was faithful of Guadalupe (A Moro word that mixes Arabic and Latin, meaning ‘Valley of Wolves’) and decided to bring it to the continent.

The cult was imposed by the Catholic Church to the natives, who identified with her due their skin color, and it came up with a story to convince them.

The virgin appeared to Juan Diego, an Indigenous person, at the Tepeyac hill in Mexico City-Tenochtitlan, giving him the task to convince Archbishop Juan de Zumarraga of building a temple in her honor at that same place. As evidence, Guadalupe gave Juan Diego a number of flowers that he brought to Zumarraga in his clothing. When he was about to show them to him they turned into a painted figure of her that remains up to this day at the Basilica of the Virgin of Guadalupe, at the heart of Mexico City.

The story is narrated at a Nahuatl manuscript called “Nican Mopohua” and according to some historians, it’s the invention of an evangelized Indigenous called Antonio Valeriano.

But that doesn’t mean the whole thing is an invention of the conquerors to trick the Indigenous. In fact, the story makes sense because Tepeyac was a common place of peregrination and devotion for the local Indigenous, who said that Tonantzin, Our Lady, used to appear there to the faithful.

Missioners were having a hard time trying to change the beliefs of the Indigenous, and while Guadalupe was of great use for this, it also allowed for a syncretic system that prevails and in which many people keep their ancient believes.

The figure of Tonantzin had many names in the Nahuatl believes. ‘Coatlicue’ (that with a serpents skirt) or ‘Cihuacoatl’ (Snake Woman) are other names that prevail today and are often added to Guadalupe at the end.

The new basilica is right next to Tepeyac and is visited by all sort of faithful. Some of them carry out dances inspired by long-time lost rituals and others prefer to climb the hill and carry their prayers there. Influenced by a more modern Mexican tradition, people sing ‘Las Mañanitas’ at 12 a.m. and bring Mariachi bands with them.

The cult is not new, but the image is.

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Because of its Indigenous origins, it's common to see people dancing in Guadalupe's honor, wearing traditional outfits and often others recreated, during the pilgrimage in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexican Catholics, in Mexico City, Mexico December 12, 2018.
Because of its Indigenous origins, it's common to see people dancing in Guadalupe's honor, wearing traditional outfits and often others recreated, during the pilgrimage in honour of the Virgin of Guadalupe, patron saint of Mexican Catholics, in Mexico City, Mexico December 12, 2018. Photo:Reuters
During the pilgrimage faithful from all across the country come in their dresses and masks to perform traditional dances in Tonantzin's honor.
During the pilgrimage faithful from all across the country come in their dresses and masks to perform traditional dances in Tonantzin's honor. Photo:EFE
The faithful are used to walk to the temple on their knees while carrying figures of Guadalupe to show their devotion. Some of them do it a few streets, others dozens of kilometers.
The faithful are used to walk to the temple on their knees while carrying figures of Guadalupe to show their devotion. Some of them do it a few streets, others dozens of kilometers. Photo:EFE
Because Mexico City is built on top of an old lake, buildings tend to sink a little. The old Basilica is visible behind this man, but it's not open for the faithful at the moment.
Because Mexico City is built on top of an old lake, buildings tend to sink a little. The old Basilica is visible behind this man, but it's not open for the faithful at the moment. Photo:EFE
The government of Mexico City said that 2 million people arrived in the city for the peregrination, but later the number rose to 7 million. According to some media outlets, about 10 million arrived..
The government of Mexico City said that 2 million people arrived in the city for the peregrination, but later the number rose to 7 million. According to some media outlets, about 10 million arrived.. Photo:EFE
A boy is seen carrying an image of Guadalupe, similar to that at the Basilica, resting on his way. December 12, 2018.
A boy is seen carrying an image of Guadalupe, similar to that at the Basilica, resting on his way. December 12, 2018. Photo:Reuters
Groups of faithful perform all sorts of rituals with origins all across the territory. December 12, 2018.
Groups of faithful perform all sorts of rituals with origins all across the territory. December 12, 2018. Photo:Carmen Valdez / IG:carmen_la_fataliste
Due the large number of visitors, some prefer to camp near the Basilica to get a good spot or rest in their long way.
Due the large number of visitors, some prefer to camp near the Basilica to get a good spot or rest in their long way. Photo:EFE
People carry rituals day and night using Copal, an important incense for the Indigenous people.
People carry rituals day and night using Copal, an important incense for the Indigenous people. Photo:EFE
The faith for Guadalupe is not limited to Mexico, but people across Latin America are also very devoted to the virgin. Here, a volunteer arranges flowers inside the Basilica of Guadalupe in San Salvador, El Salvador. December 11, 2018.
The faith for Guadalupe is not limited to Mexico, but people across Latin America are also very devoted to the virgin. Here, a volunteer arranges flowers inside the Basilica of Guadalupe in San Salvador, El Salvador. December 11, 2018. Photo:Reuters
The cult is also present in the U.S., especially where there are communities of Mexican and Latino origin. Los Angeles, California. December 12, 2018.
The cult is also present in the U.S., especially where there are communities of Mexican and Latino origin. Los Angeles, California. December 12, 2018. Photo:EFE
Members of the Poughkeepsie Folkloric Group dancing in honor of Guadalupe at the Saint Patrick Cathedral in New York City. December 12, 2018
Members of the Poughkeepsie Folkloric Group dancing in honor of Guadalupe at the Saint Patrick Cathedral in New York City. December 12, 2018 Photo:EFE
Being of great importance for the Vatican, Pope Francis leads a special mass for the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Saint Peter's Basilica. December 12, 2018.
Being of great importance for the Vatican, Pope Francis leads a special mass for the Feast of Our Lady of Guadalupe in Saint Peter's Basilica. December 12, 2018. Photo:Reuters
Published 12 December 2018
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