Perched on the western tip of Cuba’s Pinar del Río province, María la Gorda has quietly earned a reputation as one of the Caribbean’s premier dive destinations. Crystal-clear waters, virtually untouched coral gardens, and abundant marine life draw scuba enthusiasts from around the globe, yet the village itself remains charmingly low-key—a perfect escape from crowded resort towns.

Geographically, María la Gorda lies at the edge of the Guanahacabibes Peninsula Biosphere Reserve, a UNESCO-designated sanctuary encompassing mangroves, coastal lagoons, and tropical forest. The reserve’s protection helps preserve the spectacular underwater landscape, which plunges from shallow reefs into dramatic drop-offs.

The evocative name “María la Gorda” is said to commemorate a Venezuelan indigenous woman who, according to local lore, was abandoned here by pirates centuries ago. Although the story straddles legend and fact, it reflects the area’s remote, windswept beauty and sense of timeless mystery.

Beneath the waves, two sites stand out. El Valle de Coral Negro boasts Cuba’s largest expanses of black coral, its dark branches carpeting slopes that teem with angelfish and parrotfish. Meanwhile, El Salón de María enchants divers with vivid fan corals, delicate sea lilies, and the occasional loggerhead turtle gliding by.

At the heart of the village sits the María la Gorda International Dive Center, a PADI-affiliated facility where visitors can enroll in multi-day courses, earn open-water or advanced certifications, and rent top-of-the-line gear. Instructors lead daily boat trips to more than 20 marked dive sites, ensuring both safety and deep local knowledge.

Conservation underpins every excursion. As part of the Guanahacabibes Biosphere, dive operators follow strict no-touch, no-take policies, conduct regular reef-health surveys, and support coastal cleanup efforts. Their work helps maintain one of Latin America’s healthiest coral systems.

For those less inclined to dive, snorkeling along the shallow reefs offers glimpses of trumpetfish, moray eels, and schools of glass-bottom fish. Anglers charter small boats for reef or deep-sea fishing, while kayakers and sailboats explore hidden coves and quiet beaches at the water’s edge.

Reaching María la Gorda involves a scenic six-hour drive west from Havana along Carretera Central, or via daily flights from Havana to nearby Guanahacabibes airstrip, followed by a short taxi ride. Accommodation ranges from eco-lodges and seaside bungalows to a small, classified “Form 54” hotel, all emphasizing simplicity and harmony with nature.

After a day underwater, local eateries serve up fresh-caught lobster, red snapper, and conch prepared Cuban-style—garlic-butter sauces, fried plantains, and coconut-rice desserts. Generators provide intermittent electricity, creating an authentic off-grid ambiance under starlit skies.

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