Mexico Accuses Zara and Patowl of Cultural Appropriation

Mexico's Culture Secretariat accused on Monday the international brands Zara, Anthropologie, and Patowl of cultural appropriation, remarking that the fashion labels have used typical patterns from Indigenous communities in Oaxaca state without supporting local manufacturers.

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According to a statement, the Mexican authorities call "for a public explanation of the grounds on which a collective property is being privatized, making use of cultural elements whose origin is identified in various Oaxacan communities, as well as the benefits that will be retributed to the creative communities."

The authorities denounced that Zara's mint-colored midi dress with green embroidery "reflects ancestral symbols related to the environment, history, and worldview of the community" as well as "it takes elements from the Mixtec culture, from the municipality of San Juan Colorado, Oaxaca, where the traditional huipil is part of the identity of the women, who make each canvas from raw materials."

Likewise, the authorities denounced that "Anthropologie offers the piece "Marka embroidered shorts, from Daily Practice by Anthropologie," belonging to the "Daily Practice by Anthropologie" collection. In these pieces are identified distinctive and characteristic elements of the culture and identity of the Mixe people of Santa María, Tlahuitoltepec, Oaxaca."

Moreover, "in the "TOPS" collection, of the Patowl company, various printed t-shirts were identified, where a faithful copy of the traditional clothing of the Zapotec indigenous people of the community of San Antonino Castillo Velasco, Oaxaca, is observed, where the pieces are made by hand," the Secretariat revealed.

Secretary of Culture Alejandra Frausto sent letters to each company asking for an explanation. Thus far, only Zara has denied having used Indigenous designs for their collections. In recent years the Mexican authorities and the Culture Secretariat have taken action to prevent such appropriation and protect "the rights of native peoples who have historically been invisible."

Last February, the Australian brand Zimmermann was charged by the Oaxaca Artisans Institute for cultural appropriation, after which the fashion label apologized and withdrew the designs from its collection.